For a flawless nail design with perfect gel modeling, we asked our nail designer Stefanie for advice and put together her best tips and tricks for working with system gels for you. The experienced expert relies on harmonizing products from a system and a line. The coordinated collections contain the perfect accessories for the best durability and optimal results. We'll tell you how you can create your most beautiful nail design with primer, adhesive gel, modeling gel, color gel and gloss gel!
BEFORE the gel modeling starts
Our nail designer Stefanie prepares your gel modeling carefully. To do this, she pays particular attention to her workplace: she cleans and disinfects it and her tools thoroughly with high-quality disinfectants . She places files , buffers ,gloves and all other work utensils on her table or within easy reach. “I definitely don’t want to have to spend a long time looking for any instruments; that takes time and makes the customer unnecessarily nervous,” explains our expert. She tries to set her appointments appropriately and to work quickly but stress-free. But before our nail designer even starts, she discusses the respective order in detail and asks about color, nail art or manicure requests.
- Clean & disinfect workplace
- Prepare instruments
- Plan appointments stress-free
7 steps: prepare money modeling correctly
“My top priority - and the most important tip for gel modeling in general - is to carefully prepare the nail for modeling,” says our nail designer. She attaches particular importance to removing the cuticles accurately - even if they are stubborn. “Remaining cuticles do not provide a reliable hold for the subsequent modeling, meaning that lifting or pushing the gel away is possible!” For this reason, the cuticles are first pushed back, protruding skin tips are clipped off if possible and, if necessary, a cuticle remover is used . The nail is then freed from unevenness such as grooves by gently filing or buffering and is given an even surface. While removing old gel or preparing cuticles, there is an opportunity to give customers color palettes , samples or new products to look at and choose from.
- Prepare nail carefully
- Remove cuticles accurately
- Clip off excess skin
- Prevent liftings
- Gentle filing & buffering: Gently smooth the nail
- When preparing, color palettes & patterns are sufficient
- Discuss customer requests in detail before each appointment
Perfect hold in gel modeling with primer
After preparation, the basis for the gel modeling is created with an adhesive primer, also known as a primer. Our expert uses high-quality products that she applies to the cleaned and prepared nail. “Don’t use too much or too little primer – just dip the brush and wipe it off. The primer should not drip, but the nail should be coated all over. With the adhesive primer, you only work on the natural nail; it should not touch the cuticle,” explains our expert. She advises that you always close the primer well after use and ensure that it is stored well without exposure to light or heat to ensure the product has a long shelf life. After applying the air-drying primer, the customer should no longer touch anything, i.e. no contact with skin or hair - there is natural skin oil that can get onto the nail, where the gel will not adhere and lifting can occur.
- Primer on the prepared nail
- wet nail
- Primer only on the nail, not on the cuticle
- Store primer protected
- No skin or hair contact after applying the primer
- Primer dries in the air
Gel modeling: choosing the right tips
Choosing the right tip is the be-all and end-all for successful nail modeling that looks good, lasts a long time and is also comfortable for the customer to wear. “Never choose the tip too small, it puts too much tension on the natural nail and customers find it extremely uncomfortable,” explains our nail designer Stefanie. Tips that are too large, on the other hand, can rub against the skin, do not have enough support or can promote inflammation. When selecting the tip, pay attention to a harmonious curve that matches the natural nail. She recommends choosing transparent or slightly milky nails for the French manicure so that no transitions can be seen through the comparatively transparent modelling. In addition to the clear tips, white tips are also a good choice for full cover or nail art. When attaching the tip to the nail, our expert advises that the natural nail should end with the tip notch - so to speak, docking it appropriately. The glue, which is not too liquid, should be spread evenly and very thinly over the tip so that nothing overflows. Press carefully with gentle and even pressure to avoid air bubbles.
- Choose the appropriate tip size
- Tip too small feelings of tension
- Tip too big not a reliable hold
- Clear & milky tips for French manicure
- White tips for full cover & nail art
- Finish the natural nail with a tip notch
- Do not choose glue that is too liquid
- Spread the glue evenly and thinly on the tip
- Apply the tip to the natural nail with gentle pressure
Apply adhesive gel correctly and prevent lifting and feelings of tension!
“The adhesive gel ensures a gentle connection between the modeling gel and the surface of the natural nail and is the basis for your perfect gel modeling,” says our nail designer Stefanie. In general, all nails are carefully coated with adhesive gel and then cured at the same time under the UV or LED light . However, if you have problem nails or unfavorable external factors, our expert recommends that you treat each nail individually with adhesive gel and then cure it briefly under the lamp for a few seconds. All fingers are then dried under the lamp as usual - this way you can ensure that your gel modeling remains in place even in adverse circumstances! The adhesive properties of an adhesive gel can be impaired, among other things, in very hot temperatures in summer. They liquefy the gel so that it can run between the nail and the skin. There it causes unpleasant feelings of tension and can promote lifting. Customers with very oily nails who repeatedly complain about lifting or where the gel seems to pull away from the cuticle towards the center of the nail after it has hardened can benefit greatly from individual application and curing. You can also apply a second layer of adhesive gel here to ensure that all corners and edges are reliably coated.
- Connection of modeling gel and natural nail
- Basis of the gel modeling
- Hot temperatures: Cure nails individually
- Treat problem nails twice with adhesive gel
Expert tips: Apply modeling gel – this is how it works!
The modeling gel gives the artificial nail its shape; it is intended to stabilize the nail with its strength and resistance, but not to weigh it down. Our nail designer advises beginners in particular to choose a creamy modeling gel with medium viscosity that can be spread comfortably and easily without being too liquid and running on its own. She recommends that you only use a small bead of modeling gel on the gel brush. Work in an evenly thick layer over the entire nail. Very long nails must have the center of gravity in the middle of the nail so that when the gel modeling grows out, the tip remains light and breaks and prying are avoided. Our expert works a little thinner on the cuticles to prevent the extreme transitions when they grow out. To prevent the gel from running before it hardens, each finger can first be held briefly into the light device, then the entire hand. Professional tip: Start modeling with the little finger, model the thumb last due to the inclined position in the device!
- Modeling gel strengthens without weighing you down
- Medium viscosity for comfortable application
- Apply in small beads
- Even thickness of gel across the nail
- Nail center of gravity for long nails in the middle
- Work the cuticles thinner
- Start with the little finger
Now it's getting colorful: layer of color for gel modeling
“I always apply color twice in a row to get an even result without any shades or streaks,” says our nail designer. The expert recommends applying the color as close to the cuticle as possible so that a transition is not seen so quickly when it grows out. However, the color gel should not touch the cuticles. Classic beginner mistakes are improperly worked edges, too much color, which then runs into the edges of the nail and leads to feelings of tension after it has hardened, and gel that comes into contact with the skin, which comes off more quickly and can form lifts.
Professional tip: Apply the color to the sides of the nail and the tip as well to get an even result and to seal your model well.
- Apply color twice
- Apply close to the cuticles
- Do not touch cuticles
- Also color the sides of the nail and the tip
Shine gel: sealant for long-lasting gel modeling
At the end of the gel modeling, the gloss gel is used as a seal - polishing is then no longer necessary. This protects the color layer or French and ensures an even shine. Our expert advises you to definitely seal the nail edges and edges for a long service life!